. . . cooking holidays in the heart of the Mediterranean

Gozo, which in Maltese is called Ghawdex (pronounced Awdesh), is popularly called The Island of Calypso, that is a nickname originating from the Greek mythological location of Ogygia referred to in Homer's Odyssey. In this epic poem, the fabled island was controlled by the nymph Calypso, who had detained the Greek hero Odysseus for seven long years as prisoner of love. The Gozitans thrive on fishing and agriculture and this is evident in the small fishing villages that dot the island. The scenery provides a spectacular backdrop of limestone farmhouses, rolling hills and clear Mediterranean blue sea.

Gozo, meaning “joy” in Castilian, is the second largest Island of the Maltese archipelago, with a population of approximately 30,000. Though only separated from mainland Malta by a 5km stretch of sea, Gozo is distinctly different from Malta. The Island is a third the size of Malta, more rural and simple, its culture and way of life rooted in fishing, as well as in primitive pastoral and agricultural activity.

Exuding a relaxed pace of life, Gozo is the ideal secluded safe haven and at just 25 minutes or so by ferry from Malta, the hop can easily be made for even the shortest stay. Life in Gozo was harsh for well over two millennia, as the Islands were left exposed to any passing raiders, much more so than Malta with its natural harbours and defences.

Gozo and its inhabitants have their own distinct character and identity, with noticeably different lifestyles, accents and dialect. Gozitans are known for their friendliness and welcome to visitors, going out of their way to indicate a direction or help a visitor find their destination. Festas and carnival times in Gozo also have a different feel to those on Malta.  The village of Nadur celebrates carnival with a black sense of humour, quite unlike its more joyful counterparts elsewhere.

The real beauty of Gozo, apart from its stunning seascape and interior, lies in the villages.  Here, it seems as if time really does stand still. The locals treasure their peace and the villages are tranquil, proving to be a wonderful respite from the trials and tribulations of everyday life for visitors.

Village bars open early in order to cater for the early risers who attend the first mass of the morning and close fairly late at night, catering for the socialising needs of locals and visitors. These watering holes have stayed unchanged for decades, the only sign of time passing by being the food and drink displayed for sale on the solid shelves and the Edwardian glass cases.

All roads in Gozo lead to Victoria, also known as Rabat, which is where the fortified citadel sits atop a summit.

Victoria is not just the geographic heart of Gozo, but also the centre of everyday activity. It manages to combine the bustle of its market and shops with a relaxed and sociable atmosphere. It is a great place to watch the Islanders go about their day, especially when the main market square, It-Tokk, comes to life. The town also has a thriving cultural life all its own, with some surprising attractions ranging from opera to horse races in the main street on festa day.

Gozo is well served by restaurants, where the eating is good and varied. Apart from restaurants and cafés offering local dishes as well as continental menus, one can also enjoy themed restaurants, such as Chinese or Indian.

Fiona has visited and known Gozo for over thirty years, and returned with her partner David in 2004. David grew up in Gozo and knows the people and the island intimately. Both are passionate about food, culture and real comfort. Drawn back to the rich history the island has to offer . . . the delightful inlets, bays, myriad restaurants, clifftop walks and many cultural activities which take place around the year on Gozo.

Togther with their chef Claire Borg they run cooking holiday courses from a traditional Gozitan Farmhouse in Gozo, the sister Island to Malta. Converted some years ago into luxury accommodation they offer their clients a unique experience in the Gozo holiday rental market.

EXAMPLE COOKING HOLIDAY IN GOZO

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION EMAIL info@cookingozo.com

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Your Chef: Claire Borg

Here is some background information about me so you can better understand my approach to cooking and my respect for food.

I started experimenting with food at the age of two, when all I wanted to do was peel, chop and cook all day long. Dolls never interested me! So it was at an early stage that everyone realised my inclination towards food.

I absorbed everything that concerned the subject and, when it was time for me to hit the stove, each experience enriched my know how. I mostly picked ideas from members of my family, then TV, books and restaurant experiences. I attended catering school, then went to Switzerland to work in a hotel in Bern at the age of eighteen. I moved to bartending for a short spell, but I soon returned to my roots and love for food, when I went to London to learn about pastry.

I worked under the supervision of Paul Gayler, world famous chef, popular for his vegetarian cooking and book writing, at the Lanesborough Hotel in Hyde Park Corner.

I had no true teacher, I just followed an in-born instinct and learnt as I went along. I am still learning. Travel and curiosity have played a major role in my personal growth in cooking and still do.

I have ventured into vegetarian cooking many times . . . and am a part time vegetarian. By following this way of eating, I have discovered many new ingredients like quinoa, kamut, millet, seaweed and other fantastic ingredients for dishes to keep you smiling three hundred and sixty-five days a year. Vegatables are NOT boring . . . but i cannot live without fish and game and the odd steak tartare . . . and the odd Stracotto al Chianti . . . I'd better stop there!

I presently write for two magazines in Malta and also am a TV Chef on Net TV, a local channel. I am also a food photographer. It is a hobby that I enjoy and am good at. It's a personal achievement to be able to work with my editors and have my work published.

My personal attraction in this sector is the rediscovering of old local recipes and learning methods that are being lost. Also, the discovery of edible 'wild bad grass'. Wild spinach, borage, fennel, nettle and asparagus before were just grass in the countryside . . . now they are a part of my 'winter' diet. I follow the seasons, using seasonal ingredients, fresh from the local markets when I possily can. But in a year's time, my interests could be Japanese cooking in some remote place in Japan. Like the seasons, we change and so do our interests. It's part of growing.

Your accommodation

During your cooking holiday in Gozo you will stay in a traditional Gozitan farmhouse known as "Kenn-ir-Rih", which means shelter from the wind due to its westerly location in the most peaceful location of Gharb in Gozo, the sister Island to Malta.

Converted some years ago into luxury accommodation the farmhouse provides clients with a unique experience. It is based at the end of the delightful quiet old village of Gharb on the west end of the island, with its narrow alleys and baroque church.

The accommodation is extremely comfortable with six-foot four-poster beds, memory foam mattresses, en-suite bathrooms.

About Gozo

Gozo was first inhabited before the Neolithic Period (ca. 4th Millenium BC). Even so, according to archaeological finds, this means that Gozo received its first inhabitants from Sicily before mainland Malta. Today's Gozitan has typical Mediterranean features that closely match with Spanish or Italian looks. Gozitans are renowned hard-workers, religiously influenced and with an admirable sence of hospitality. The population of Gozo stands at about 31,000 and is distributed amongst Victoria and the surrounding thirteen villages.

Throughout the years Gozo has been vastly influenced by the cultures and history of a series of dominators including the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, the Knights of St. John, the French and the British, who all left their mark on the cultural and the folkloristic heritage of the population.

Throughout the Middle Ages and into the rule of the Knights, Barbary corsairs and Saracens raided the island at intervals. In 1551, the Saracens carried out a devastating raid, taking almost the entire population away into slavery. The Island never really recovered from this and remained under populated for centuries until the arrival of the Knights saw the medieval Citadel (in Victoria, or Rabat) refortified and the Gozitans began to venture down to the rest of the Island.

In comparison with mainland Malta, one finds a more varied geology and larger relief contrasts, with typical flat-topped hills. Over 31000 people inhabit the island and this amounts to one-twelfth of the overall population of Malta. When compared to the overall area of the Maltese Islands, Gozo covers approximately one-third of that area. This means that the island of Gozo is not overpopulated, and therefore greener and quite more peaceful. The main sources of income are from Tourism, Agriculture, Fishing together with a number of small and medium-sized enterprises. Politically, Gozo and Comino form one of the thirteen electoral districs of the Republic of Malta. Five representatives are elected to the Maltese parliament, and to better look after the Gozitan people's interests, one of these is always a central government cabinet minister. Besides, each of the fourteen localities or village communities have their own local council and therefore their mayor.

The official coat-of-arms of Gozo is a field divided horizontally: the upper two thirds silver; the lower one third made up of six parallel wavy horizontal bands alternately silver and black, the top one silver, the bottom one black. Upon the upper part, three slightly pointed hills in black, the centre hill higher and in front of the other two hills. Above the shield is a mural coronet with five eschaugettes and a sally-port in gold. Simultaneously with this emblem, Gozo earned its popular nickname the Island of the Three Hills probably derived from the hilly view when observed from mainland Malta.