Why Argentina?

Home to Tierra del Fuego, the Igazu Falls, the Valdes Peninsula, the glaciers of Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina is a place of immense natural beauty and adventure. Combined with culture and excitement of the capital Buenos Aires, the architecture of Salta, and the vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina is a must see.

Why Estancia Ranquilco & Estancia Trocoman?

Whether you come to fish or ride, these Estancia’s capture the allure and mystery of Patagonia. Nestled into the foothills of the Andes, reached only by horse or helicopter, they represent one of the world’s last frontiers.

A Culinary Adventure

Calling all foodies! I am excited to offer a 10 day course in Argentine cooking, focusing on traditional Patagonian foods. Not just any culinary vacation, it is a journey into the world’s last frontier, Patagonia, the land of the gauchos. Join me for an all inclusive fun filled culinary tour of Argentina in the Andean cordillera (mountains).

This trip includes cultural excursions, cooking demonstrations, tastings, hands on instruction, and best of all, great food and fine wine. I will also address areas of modern homesteading of interest to chefs, including milking, chicken raising, bread making, cheese and yogurt making, organic gardening (including composting and seed saving), butchering and food storage.

The ten day trip features nine nights in luxury accommodations at Estancia Ranquilco, a working horse and cattle ranch in northern Patagonia and fun extras such as horse riding and fly fishing.

The April 2011 course features an optional Buenos Aires component. Spend an extra 3 days with me exploring the food, wine and culture in this amazing city.

Dates and Prices

• February 24th – March 5th, 2011, $2500 USD per person, double occupancy (single supplement $250).

• April 6th – April 15th, 2011, $2500 USD per person, double occupancy (single supplement $250).

Price Includes:

• Nine nights accommodations in double occupancy
• Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner including local wine and beer
• Truck transfer to and from Zapala and in and out of the Estancia by horse
• Hands-on cooking lessons and cooking demonstrations
• Horse riding and fly fishing excursions on the Estancia

Optional Buenos Aires Component:

• April 2nd – April 5th, 2011, $1000 USD per person, double occupancy (single supplement $150).

Buenos Aires, known for its culture, architecture and addiction to tango is also home to a vibrant foodie community. It is a wonderful place to begin your exploration of Argentine cuisine and wines. Let me be your host in this magnificent city. In between city tours and tango lessons, we will dine at excellent restaurants, meet local chefs, gather for cooking demonstrations, shop and cook together from a local market and sample excellent Argentine wines. Check back after mid-January for a detailed itinerary for this optional add on to my Patagonian cooking class at Estancia Ranquilco.

Price Includes:

• Three nights accommodations in double occupancy
• Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner including local wine and beer
• Restaurant and food market tours
• Cooking demonstrations and hands on lessons
• Evening tango show with dinner
• Evening wine tasting with food pairings
• Bus transfer to and from Zapala

FOR HELP OR INFORMATION EMAIL <CLICK HERE>

Cooking Holiday Programme

Day One

Arrive in the small city of Zapala in Neuquen Province to meet the other class participants. Travel by truck to Buta Mallin a large grazing meadow and gaucho camp on Estancia Ranquilco. There we will lunch with several of our gauchos, eating an asado (grilled meat) served with fresh bread. Following the meal, we will have our first matè session. The infusion called maté is prepared by steeping dry leaves and twigs of the yerba plant in hot water. Drinking maté with friends from a shared hollow gourd with a metal straw (a bombilla) is a common social practice in Argentina and one which you will enjoy throughout your trip.

Watch as your luggage is loaded onto our sturdy pack mules. You will then be introduced to your horse and tack and we will take the 3 hour ride to the lodge at Ranquilco. Settle into your cottage and take some time to rest and shower before joining us on the terrace for the sunset. Dinner will be a simple kitchen meal of guiso (stew) combining traditional ingredients with squash and butter beans. Served with crusty bread and a good Argentine red wine, it will be a perfect ending to your first day at Estancia Ranquilco.

Day Two

Breakfast on fresh fruit, our homemade granola and yogurt. After breakfast, I will demonstrate yogurt preparation using our own fresh milk. In the morning, unpack, take a walking tour of the grounds, and hold a peaceful maté session.

Lunch will feature fresh greens from our organic garden and a courgette tart using a Carrithers family recipe. After siesta, I will teach traditional bread making (pan casero). Learn the science behind bread baking and useful tips for the home baker. The lesson will take about two hours and we will bake our loaves in our wood fired outdoor adobe oven.

Laze around the lodge for a few hours and then return to the kitchen just before dinner to watch a cheese making demonstration. Relax on the terrace with fresh bread, herbed cheese, olives and wine. Dinner in the dining room of Casa Grande will be Lasagna Blanca con pollo y aselga (White Lasagna with chicken and chard) served with wine from Neuquen province. The lasagna will be homemade, a skill you will learn later!

Day Three

Get up early to visit the morning milking session and learn about keeping a cow and using fresh milk, including a discussion of pasteurization vs raw milk and all the milk by-products available to the home chef. After breakfast, head to the garden for an overview of Estancia Ranquilco’s organic garden methods, including bed making, compost preparation, seed starting and seed saving, organic fertilization methods, season extensions such as cold frames and greenhouses, and garden planning. Sit down to a lunch from vegetables you harvest that morning! I will demonstrate how to spontaneously make use of the garden’s bounty.

After siesta, we will talk about the origins and use of dulce du leche (milk jam) in Argentine cooking. Sample homemade dulce du leche with milk from our own cow. Then we will make the classic Argentine sweet, scrumptious alfajores – two butter cookies with rich dulce de leche sandwiched in between.

An optional two hour horse ride will be offered in the late afternoon.

In the early evening, relax on the terrace with a wine tasting. Learn about Argentine wines and sample varieties from several provinces, including a local bodega. Dinner will be Estancia raised beef on the grill, yogurt & mint baby potatoes and garden greens.

Day Four

After breakfast, we will gather in the kitchen to prepare perfect river side picnic fare – an an Argentine delight – empanadas. After rolling out the dough, we will prepare 3 different filling representing three different provinces in Argentina. After they are baked, we invite you to experience superb fly-fishing in one of the best trout rivers on Earth – the Rio Trocoman – just below the lodge. Walk, fish, swim and picnic by the river for a relaxing day.

For dinner, I will prepare poached trout in butter, milk and white wine with capers for dinner. Enjoy pre-dinner drinks on the terrace with a traditional Patagonian tablas spread – venison, smoked boar, cheese, olives and marinated white beans.

Day Five

After breakfast, we will pretend it is the 29th of the month – sadly February only has 28 days – and celebrate Argentina’s national Ñoquis (Gnocchi) Day. On the 29th day of each and every month it is a tradition in Argentina to get together and eat ñoquis. Some say the tradition is in honor of Saint Pantaleon, the patron saint of Venice, whose feast day is on the 29th. The saint is said to have eaten a simple meal with farmers on one of his pilgrimages. The farmers had a record crop the next year and the miracle was credited to the saint.

We will prepare traditional ñoquis dough together and while you roll individual ñoquis over the press, I will make a simple sauce as an accompaniment. When you sit down to our at Feliz ñoquis del 29! Celebration at lunch, place a small amount of money under your plate for good luck as per tradition.

The afternoon is free for activities or relaxing. Dinner will include Estancia raised lamb and an Argentine favorite, creamed chard.

Day Six

After breakfast, we will talk about ways to extend the harvest. Preserving, including canning, salting, drying, and freezing are all an essential part of sustainable living. I will take you through some simple recipes (such as kale chips) that represent a range of delicious preserving options and show you how I smoke and preserve trout from our river.

Lunch is my famous Rocket Pizza, homemade pizza with arugula. Then saddle up and ride with the gauchos to the Confluencia (the meeting of the Rio Trocoman and Rio Picunleo) to learn some traditional gaucho camp cooking. First swim, siesta and relax by the river. Then we will make tortas fritas (fry cakes). Gauchos make tortas fritas out in the cordillera (mountains) as a substitute for bread because no oven is required. As evening falls, watch as the gaucho prepares an asado of baby goat. Gather around the fire with wine as they stoke the coals and the meat sizzles. The goat will be served on slices of fresh bread – no plates! Ride back to the lodge at night under the stars – or sleep out on your saddle blankets and return in the morning.

Day Seven

The morning is free for rides and river time. For lunch, enjoy my spicy squash cakes and a gaucho favorite, lentil and onion salad.

After siesta, we will unmold the cheese we began earlier and prepare a simple ravioli filling of cheese and spinach. Then we will prepare pasta dough from scratch. After rolling out and filling the pasta, we will learn a simple sauce – a cream, walnut, and butter sauce with pine mushrooms from the area (hongos de pino).

Relax before dinner on the terrace.

Day Eight

After breakfast and your maté circle, those who want to will walk up to visit the gaucho who keeps our goat herd and watch a traditional goat slaughter. Learn how we use as much of the animal as possible, including the hide. Return to Ranquilco and watch a gaucho carefully slice the fresh goat leg into the thin fillets we will use for traditional milanesas. Return to the kitchen with me and pound the meat slices and marinate them in oil, egg, garlic and parsley.

Lunch on a traditional dish inherited from the Spanish, tortilla de papas (not to be confused with the Mexican flatbread, this is an egg omelet with fried potatoes, onion and garlic). The afternoon is spent at your leisure. At 6pm join me in the kitchen to finish up the milanesas by breading them. Then relax on the terrace before our dinner of milanesas con pure (milanesa with mashed potatoes).

Day Nine

At breakfast we will talk about the origins and use of rosa mosqueta (rose hips) in Argentina. We are fortunate that the plant grows wild in our area and you can sample our homemade rosa mosqueta preserves. After breakfast, I will take you through some fun techniques for plating your food to showcase your new recipes and skills in the kitchen.

For lunch enjoy a traditional corn pie with fresh greens.

The afternoon is free for rides and river time. In the evening, as a fitting ending to your stay on the Estancia, we will celebrate with a huge asado. One of our gouchos will prepare cordero a la cruz (lamb on the cross). After packing, sit around the fire pit to watch him work. After our meal, the guitars will come out and the traditional folk dancing can begin.

Day Ten

After breakfast, watch as your luggage is loaded up onto a mule and then ride out to Buta Mallin. There, try traditional ñaco, wheat berries mixed with beer to keep you going until we arrive by truck in the small town of El Huecu. We will rest at a chakra (small land holding) for lunch and eat chorizo’s off the grill before continuing on to the city of Zapala. There, we will say goodbye. You can either take the overnight bus back to Buenos Aires, or better yet, continue your culinary journey through Patagonia by going on to San Martin de los Andes.

FOR HELP OR INFORMATION EMAIL <CLICK HERE>

Georgina Tegart . . . your Chef and Hostess

havePatagoniawillTravel was created by Georgina Tegart. That’s me. I am passionate about travel, horses, food and Patagonia. Born in England, raised in Africa, and an immigrant to the United States of America, I now make my home in the Andean cordillera with a horse, a cat and two dogs. I am currently the Chef and Hostess at Estancia Ranquilco in Argentina, where I am responsible for organizing fantastic riding and fly fishing vacations for people from all over the world.

I have been living at Ranquilco for four years now as the chef and hostess. We host mainly horse riding enthusiasts from all over the world for vacations as well as adventure programs such as mule supported pack trips into the mountains. In addition to my regular duties, I run two programs at Ranquilco every year – both close to my heart - my culinary program and my girl’s only riding adventure, Girls and Gauchos.

Buen provecho!

I belong to the Slow Food movement and their principals are a guiding philosophy for my life and my kitchen. Slow Food essentially means the use of small scale butchering and organic gardening, the use of local produce and preparation of traditional foods, and the enjoyment of these foods in the company of others. Slow down with me.

From the Land

I am fortunate that, living this remotely, the land around us supplies bountiful, beautiful ingredients to my kitchen and to your table. Grass raised Estancia beef, lamb and kid are pastured in the surrounding hills and valleys. Fresh rainbow trout can be pulled from the river running below the lodges, and eggs are gathered fresh daily. Two cows supply the milk for cheese, yogurt and numerous desserts including ice cream. Our Mediterranean like climate supports culinary herbs such as sage, thyme, rosemary, chives and oregano. I have helped develop an extensive organic garden which includes two greenhouses and showcases unusual and delicious heirloom vegetable varieties.

By Hand

I focus on handmade food – in fact, almost everything that comes from my kitchen is made from scratch, from delicate pasta, to risotto to pastries and tarts. In addition, I prepare artisan bread daily and make a variety of cheeses.

The Argentine Palette

The Argentina culinary heritage stems from Italian and Spanish cuisine but has strong french influences. Some of the traditional Argentine food you will experience from my kitchen is (of course) beef and lamb off the grill, handmade stuffed pasta, pizza, gnocchi, milanesa, empanadas, and desserts featuring dulce du leche. Local recipes given to me by the gauchos, including soups and stews, are served. The practice of smoking boar and wild deer dominates the area to the south of us in Patagonia, and I bring these in from an esteemed boutique supplier to add to cheeses and olives for a traditional “tablas” spread.

Mighty Malbecs

I am grateful to live in one of the largest wine producing countries of the wine, where fine wine can enjoyed every day. Argentina is known for it’s high quality Malbec wine, mostly from Mendoza, to the north of us.

The wine cellars of both Estancia Trocoman and Estancia Ranquilco are filled with quality wines from the Provinces of Mendoa and Neuquen, including bodegas popular with the critics, boutique vineyards and wines not available for export.

I have the best job possible in the best place in the world.
Contact me at georgina@havepatagoniawilltravel.com

Estancia Ranquilco

Estancia Ranquilco is a remote family-owned 100,000 acre horse and cattle ranch nestled in the foothills of the Andes. It is a vast expanse of land in Patagonia, stretching across leagues of high steppes, river valleys, grazing meadows, and jagged cliffs, into the very heart of the Argentine cordillera. Ranquilco’s western boundary is the border with Chile – the high country – graced with lakes, waterfalls, condors, hot springs and weeks of wandering.

The main lodge is located three hours by horse from the trailhead (reachable by 4×4). It is made up of Casa Grande, the original family home built by Ashley Carrithers almost thirty years ago, guest cottages, original stone and adobe buildings, barns and corrals.

Casa Grande is a stone-crafted, architectural masterpiece overlooking the Trocoman River, featuring a massive great room with a cathedral ceiling, an immense hand crafted stone fireplace and lovely long dining table.

Ranquilco is an abundantly special place where pure Nature reigns with as little human intervention as possible. There are no phones, no televisions, and even the electricity which is generated by falling water sometimes releases the participants to the gentler, kinder glow of candle and fire light.

Accommodations

Three private cottages are clustered around the main lodge. Each cottage is distinctive in its architecture and furnishings and all have private bathrooms.

The Castle Room is a romantic two room suite connected by a huge stone arch. A raised double bed offers amazing views of the river canyon down below where eagles nest. Throw open the French doors to your private stone patio overlooking the river and surrounding mountains. Enjoy wine and even private meals on your patio.

The sitting room has a beautiful handcrafted stone fireplace embellished with “heart” stones found naturally in this area. The bathroom has a wood heated boiler and shower. The cottage is surrounded by fruit trees and flower gardens. The Castle Room is just a short walk away from the main lodge.

Dossie’s House is just a short walk away from the main lodge. It looks out over a horse pasture and the river. It is surrounded by fruit trees and flower gardens.

High ceiling and skylights mean this large wood crafted suite is always filled with light. It is infused with the gentle, peaceful energy of Ashley’s mother Doss, for whom it was built. The main bedroom has a double bed, day window bed, and a small comfortable sun room/sitting room. Dossie’s has views overlooking the river and horse pastures. The spacious bathroom has a stone crafted fireplace, dressing room, and wood heated tub and shower. A small second bedroom has its own private entrance.

The Apartment is an addition to the main lodge with views overlooking Casa Grande’s terrace and the river. Built above our library, it has a private outside stone stairway. It is a three room stone and wood suite with one double bed, two single beds, two fireplaces, and a sitting room. The bathroom has a bathtub and shower and wood heated water.

Questions and Reservations

E-mail me at georgina@havepatagoniawilltravel.com. Please note, while I am at the estancia I do not have e-mail access. You will receive a message asking you to send any urgent questions to our satellite e-mail ranquilco@skymate.com. The next time I will have access to regular e-mail is January 15th, 2011.

You may also contact the two owners who are in town more frequently and have cell phone service. Both Ashley or Ginny would be happy to help you plan a vacation to their estancias.

• Ashley Kent Carrithers
  Owner, Estancia Ranquilco
  ashleykentc@hotmail.com
  
  From within Patagonia: 029 4215 550164
  From outside Patagonia: (54) 9 2942 550164
  
  
• Virginia Neary Carrithers
  Owner, Estancia Trocoman
  ginnycarrithers@yahoo.com
  
  From within Patagonia: 02942 15 697891
  From outside Patagonia: (54) 9 2942 697891

Getting Here and Away

Estancias Ranquilco and Trocoman are located in Northern Patagonia, Neuquen Province, Argentina. Over 90% of our guests arrive here through the capital city Buenos Aires. From BA, we recommend taking an overnight bus to the city of Zapala. It costs around $100 USD and is a very comfortable experience, with fully reclining seats, blankets, pillows, hot meals and wine. From Zapala a taxi or one of the estancia trucks will take you up into the mountains to a trailhead where a gaucho will pack your luggage onto mules and mount you on horseback for your 3 hour ride in.

Ashley, Ginny or Georgie can help you plan your journey including how to get here from the Lake District (San Carlos de Bariloche and San Martin de los Andes) or Chile.